In the Kitchen Garden:

1. Hoe regularly to keep down weeds.
2. Lift onions and shallots as they become ready.
3. Continue to thin vegetables sown earlier.
4. Give plants that need a boost a dose of a quick-acting fertilizer.
5. Sow cabbages for spring use.
6. Pinch out the growing tips of runner beans when they reach the top of their support.
7. Pay regular attention to outdoor tomatoes.
8. Continue to harvest herbs regularly.
9. Summer prune cordon and espalier apples if you have not already done so and if shoots are mature enough.
10. Tidy up summer-flowering strawberries. Cut off old leaves and unwanted runners, remove straw, and control weeds.
11. Protect fruit against birds if they are troublesome. A fruit cage is ideal.

The Flower Garden:

1. Dead-head plants in borders and containers regularly.
2. Feed plants in containers to keep the blooms coming.
3. Hoe beds and borders regularly to keep down weeds.
4. Take semi-ripe cuttings.
5. Clip beech, holly, hornbeam and yew hedges, and most evergreen hedges, if you have not already done so.
6. Plant spring-flowering bulbs.
7. Take fuchsia and pelargonium cuttings.
8. Sow hardy annuals to overwinter.
9. Plant lilies.
10. Clear summer bedding and prepare for spring bedding plants.
11. Continue to watch for pests and diseases on roses and other vulnerable plants.
12. Disbud dahlias and chrysanthemums as necessary.
13. Lift and store dahlias after the first frost.
14. Lift and store gladioli and other tender bulbs, corms and tubers.
15. Take in tender aquatic plants from the pond if frost is threatened.

The Greenhouse and Conservatory:

1. Bring in house and greenhouse plants that have been standing outdoors for the summer.
2. Sow spring-flowering plants such as cyclamen, schizanthus and exacum.
3. Clean off summer shading washes.
4. Repot cacti if they need it.
5. Check that greenhouse heaters are in good working order. Arrange to have them serviced, if necessary.
6. Pot up and pot on seedling pot-plants as it becomes necessary.
7. Plant hyacinth for early flowering under glass.

When the word 'xeriscape' is mentioned, many people think of cactus and sand (as in the picture above)-or rock gardens with a few lonely plants scattered about. Mind you, both cactus gardens and rock gardens can be be quite attractive. But many people think that those are what xeriscaping involves. That is a false impression. You can have a landscape that is fully planted, colorful--and water-conserving. Nor do you necessarily have to have only drought-tolerant plants. The idea is to reduce overall water use by grouping plants with similar needs together - so you can have one area that uses more water than the environment naturally provides and another area where you need no extra water at all.

Advantages of Xeriscape

• Water saving: Using native and other drought-tolerant plants can significantly reduce water use.
• Money saving: Reducing water use can lower your water bill. Xeriscaping can also reduce maintenance costs--while adding to the beauty and value of your property.
• Time saving: Xeriscape landscaping can significantly reduce the time you spend watering, fertilizing and mowing. (Buy a hammock--you'll have more time to use it.)
• No worries: It's nice to be able to go on vacation for a few weeks and know your plants will still be alive when you return.

A Bit of History:

Early in 1981, the Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) and Denver Water formed a cooperative task force on water conservation. Nancy Leavitt, an Environmental Planner for Denver Water, created the word Xeriscape during a group brainstorming session. The task force came up with the original definition of Xeriscape as "Water Conservation Through Creative Landscaping" and the seven simple principles by early 1982.

The seven principles are:

• Planning and Design for water conservation and beauty from the start.
• Create Practical Turf Areas of manageable size and shape, and appropriate grasses.
• Select Low Water Requiring Plants and group plants of similar water needs together. Then experiment to determine how much and how often to water the plants.
• Use Soil Amendments as needed by the site and the type of plants used (we recommend using Whitney Farms Planting Compost, or Miracle Gro Nursery Select Planting Mix for most situations).
• Use Mulches, such as Kellogg Gromulch, to reduce evaporation and to keep the soil cool.
• Irrigate Efficiently with properly designed systems, and by applying the right amount of water at the right time.
• Maintain the Landscape Properly by mowing, weeding, pruning and fertilizing properly.

If you've just moved in to a new place and want a whole new landscape, consider xeriscape. We'd advise you, in that situation, to hire a professional landscaper to help you design the landscape--and to do the hard work for you. Doing a whole landscape at once is too much for most individuals. But you can use the "bit by bit" approach or a simple substitution approach, and move your landscape gradually to xeriscape.

Maybe you have a problem area where it's difficult to keep your plants growing well, or an area that is difficult to irrigate. Perhaps you have an area of lawn that is difficult to mow or keep green. These are the types of areas to look at as candidates for starting a xeriscape landscape.

One of the major things to look at when xeriscaping is, "Can I get rid of some of that lawn?" Out of all the things we grow in our yards, turf is probably the biggest overall water-user. If you live in an area with a homeowner's association that requires you to have a certain percentage of lawn, at least make your long-term plans to get the lawn down to the minimal acceptable percentage (or try to get the rule changed).

When planning a xeriscaped area, keep in mind that curves are more natural (and easier to mow around) than sharp angles. Also look at the soil type, the amount of sun or shade, the elevation and ease of access.

Do you have some plants that do well in that area, even if neglected? Those may be good candidates for xeriscaping in that particular micro-climate in your yard. Remove, or move, plants that are not doing well and amend the soil before planting any new plants. Then mulch, and mulch, and mulch some more.

Keep in mind that even native and "adapted" plants for our area will need extra water when first planted, until established. Once established, however, they will need much less maintenance than other areas.

We predict that, once you start, you may well continue until your whole yard (or as much as possible) is xeriscaped. You can then lie in your hammock, sipping a cool drink on those hot summer days, and watch your neighbors sweating over their vast expanses of turf.

Grasshoppers are among the most difficult insect pests to manage in the garden. When numbers are low, they can be hand-picked and squashed. Floating row covers and other protective covers provide some protection if their numbers are not high. However, grasshoppers will eat through cloth or plastic row covers if they are hungry enough.

Most grasshoppers are general feeders, but they prefer young, green plants, especially lettuce, beans, corn, carrots, onions, and some annual flowers. Grasshoppers do their damage by chewing and can remove large sections of leaves and flowers in one sitting, sometimes devouring an entire plant. An odd grasshopper here and there is nothing to be alarmed about, but should you face a full invasion, there are some steps you can take to combat this destructive pest.

The best way to control grasshoppers is to apply a bait containing carbaryl around the borders of your garden. Make sure to re-apply baits after any period of rain. For non-edible plants, you can also use a spray directly on the plants. It usually helps to do a repeat spray every couple of weeks until they leave your garden. Make sure to spray late in the evening or early morning when bee activity is lower; you don't want to kill our important pollinators.

White grubs are damaging pests that begin invading lawns in early spring and again in summer. Grubs do their damage below ground, so the problem often goes undetected until too late. Beetle grubs can turn a fine looking lawn into a patchwork quilt of yellow spots. In addition, birds and other animals will often start digging up your lawn looking for the tasty grubs to feed on.

The grubs are actually larvae of beetles and other insects; most are C-shaped and off-white with a dark head.

There are several types of grubs that are capable of damaging lawns, with two life cycles in a year. When you have grubs, the damaged areas of grass can be easily lifted and many times the grubs can be seen feeding on the edge of the healthy grass in the damaged area.

Natural controls include beneficial nematodes or milky spore (a disease that specifically attacks Japanese beetle grubs), although it takes a number of applications for milky spore to become established in lawns. It's an excellent long-term solution, but doesn't help much right now.

There are chemical products that are very effective for a grub problem, but only at certain times of year. We recommend Bayer Advanced Grub Control for this time of year.

Let's face it, working in your garden or watering your lawn is not easy while yellow jackets are buzzing around you. The yellowjacket could be searching for food or trying to protect the nest it carefully constructed during the past season.

Although wasps are helpful in pollination, and some varieties actually feed on insects such as caterpillars and other crop-destroying bugs, their venom can be harmful to those who are allergic to stings.

There are several ways to protect your garden visitors from the yellow jacket. The most natural way is by prevention. Wasps are attracted to food sources by smell, so eliminating any type of food such as soda or protein will keep these critters away. Do not squish a wasp, as the bug releases a pheromone that attracts others of its kind. Even worse, if you swat at the yellowjacket and miss, it will only defend itself by trying to sting you.

The easiest way to remove yellow jackets from your garden is by using a trap. The yellow jackets will enter the trap and get stuck. When using a trap, be sure to empty it weekly. We suggest placing a few strategically in different parts of the garden (away from entertaining areas) for best results. You can also spray the nest, if it is not near any vegetables or herbs. Note that spraying does put you in danger of being stung.

No doubt you're seeing these riotous shrubs and small trees in bloom right now! Sunny and hot will continue to be the forecast over the next couple months.

Some plants (and people!) grow weary and stressed when high temperatures persist day after day. Crape myrtles, on the other hand, thrive under these conditions, making them valuable flowering shrubs or small trees in the landscape. Whether trained as standard or multi-trunk trees, Crape myrtles make beautiful specimen or accent plants. Showy crinkled flowers are abundant throughout summer, with colors ranging from the reds to pinks, purples, and white. These gorgeous shrubs are wonderful in any sunny spot where summer color is needed.

For desired size and shape, prune in early spring. Don't worry too much about your pruning skills, as crape myrtles bloom on new wood. However, it is important to deadhead as blossoms fade in order to encourage continuous bloom. Crape myrtles are long-lived, drought tolerant and relatively pest free, although sometimes aphids and powdery mildew can be a problem. The handsome bark and fall leaf color just add to an already stunning plant!

Enjoy the show!

Plants in containers often suffer at this time of year. Water them frequently. (A drip system can save time plus all the water that's wasted when you go from plant to plant with a hose.) In very hot weather, containers often dry out almost as soon as they're watered. It's not only the heat; dry air literally pulls moisture out of the soil right through the sides of terra-cotta pots.

Terra-cotta containers add charm to gardens and patios, but unfortunately for aesthetics most plants actually grow better in plastic. The idea that plants are helped by a pot that "breathes" is a mistaken one. The soil mix itself should breathe. It should be light and airy, which can be accomplished by adding perlite or sponge rock. In containers that breathe, roots follow the water as it escapes through the sides of the pot. They form a solid mat that clings to the inside of the pot, drying out daily and causing the plant to wilt. When plants are grown in plastic, roots tend to form more evenly throughout the mix. Eventually they congregate at the bottom and along the sides, but by then it's time to re-pot the plant to the next size.

Before planting in porous containers, seal the insides with a double coat of black waterproofing tar to help prevent moisture from escaping. Alternatively, try double-potting. Just put the plastic pot inside one of the more attractive pots. (If you want to dress things up a little more you can hide the grow pot and soil by putting a layer of dried Spanish moss or bark chips on top of the soil at the base of the plant).

Who's your bud? Not the budworm. When the weather warms up, you can bet this pest is on its way. The budworm (a type of caterpillar/moth) is gunning for your geraniums, petunias, snapdragons, and other flowering plants. Knowing the budworm's diet, habits, and the effective control methods, you will be armed and ready for combat.

It can be hard to spot budworms. They are very small and they tend to take on the color of the bloom or foliage they are infesting, further enhancing their camouflage. You will see irregular chewing on the blossoms and round holes through flower buds and leaves. The numerous black droppings they leave behind are one of the telltale signs. Many gardeners may not know they have a problem until the damage becomes severe.

Controlling this pest depends on the amount of planting. With a small patio of plants, physically removing and killing them should be effective. A larger yard would require spraying. Insecticides that contain Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), such as Safer BT Caterpillar Control, offer reasonably effective biological control. Because the Bt must be ingested by the insect to be effective, it may take a few days before you no longer see any signs of budworms. Plant sprays containing Sevin are also effective in controlling budworms.

Now that you know what to look for, and what to spray, you'll be armed and ready at the first sign of attack.

My orchid's roots are bulging out of the holes in my container. Do I need to re-pot it?

Answer:
Probably. Although orchids like to be somewhat crowded in their container homes, most orchids need to be repotted once every 1 to 2 years. The bark or moss that the orchids are grown in gradually deteriorates. If repotting is not done, the bark or moss becomes decomposed and packed down. When this happens, the roots don't get properly aerated and drainage can become blocked, leading to root rot.

Ideally, orchids should be repotted immediately after flowering. For best results, orchids should be grown either in sphagnum moss or a fine-medium orchid bark mix, such as Uni-Gro Orchid Mix. You can also combine the two. Orchids do not grow well in soil, because that is not how they grow normally. Most are found in the tree canopy high above the jungle floor. Make sure your new orchid pots have good drainage.

The pesky little insect has ruined countless hikes, BBQ's and campouts. This vector has literally killed millions of people throughout history, and still affects millions around the world today. As daunting as this sounds, there are steps you can take to co-exist and stay healthy.

What attracts the mosquito? After 30 million years of evolution, the mosquito has perfected its hunting skills. The mosquito uses three sensors to attract its prey:

• Chemical sensors: Mosquitoes sense carbon dioxide and lactic acid up to 100 feet away. Unfortunately, we give off these gases as part of our normal breathing.
• Visual sensors: Clothing that contrasts with the background enables the mosquito to "zero in" on you.
• Heat sensors: Mosquitoes detect heat, so they can find warm-blooded mammals very easily.

The best thing you can do to control mosquitoes is to use a mosquito repellant with deet such as Cutter Insect Repellant and eliminate standing water around your home. A mosquito can lay up to 250 eggs at one time in still water, and they can hatch as fast as 7 days. Check your gutters frequently for collected water (especially if they sag and aren't level), along with birdbaths, buckets or boggy areas of the garden.

Burning citronella candles, using an electronic bug zapper, or spraying surfaces near entertainment areas with a mosquito barrier spray like Green Light Spinosad will also help kill, or at least repel, mosquitoes. We also highly recommend using Mosquito Dunks if you have areas of standing water that you can't drain.

The West Nile Virus was first introduced in the U.S. in 1999. It has since spread to almost every state, with over 3,000 cases in 2006. Diligence is your best protection. Stay indoors at dawn and dusk hours, wear pants and long-sleeves shirts if possible, avoid any standing water, and repair broken screens.

Although it can be a constant battle, by incorporating the use of insect repellents and breeding prevention (eliminating standing water), mosquitoes and the diseases they carry can be reduced, making the outdoors more accessible and enjoyable for everyone.